Why Should We Be Concerned About Chemicals in Hair Dyes?

It comes down to accumulated toxic exposure. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, hair dyes contain quaternium-15, which can release formaldehyde; phenylenediamine (PPD), which may be carcinogenic; and alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs), potential hormone disruptors. Though studies remain inconclusive overall, many have indicated that some ingredients in hair dyes can cause cancer, particularly for those who are exposed a lot, like hair dressers and stylists.

We also need to be cautious of what we apply to the scalp because it can absorb potentially harmful chemicals and transmit them into the bloodstream. A study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology, for example, states, “Several studies suggest that toxic chemicals in hair products may be absorbed through the scalp in sufficient amounts to increase the risks of adverse health affects in women….”

What’s Safe and What’s Not?

If you talk to a hair stylist about the safest method of hair coloring, most likely he or she would tell you to avoid coloring altogether. To change the color of your hair requires a chemical reaction, so it’s difficult to completely avoid any chemical exposure. There are some more natural brands of hair coloring out there, but the actual chemical difference is slight—perhaps one molecule removed from full-blown ammonia, for example. So all in all, there’s just not a 100% safe hair color out there.

The other issue is that many natural hair dyes have not received the best reviews as far as color matching and consistent results. They may have fewer harmful ingredients, but you may not be as happy with the results. This is where you must make a decision—how much risk are you comfortable taking? If you’re healthy with no auto-immune diseases or chemical sensitivities, you may feel okay about using a regular brand once in awhile. If you’re going through cancer, or if you have sensitive skin, allergies, or chemical sensitivities, you may feel differently.

Some brands may have fewer potentially harmful ingredients than others, however, and may help lower your exposure. The FDA does not regulate hair dye ingredients, so watch labels for things like ammonia, peroxide, PPDs, coal tar (though most dyes don’t contain this anymore), toluene and resorcinol. Some natural dyes to try include Aubrey Organics, pure Henna (though realize you can’t change the color on this one if you don’t like it), and NaturaTint.

Finding a Safe Salon

Once you decide how you want to approach your hair care, the next step is to find a stylist who will work with you. Some have absolutely no experience with less toxic dyes, and others are well educated about them. Tell your stylist you’re concerned about chemicals and that you prefer hair dyes that are ammonia-free, herbal-based, low-PPD, lead-free, toluene-free and coal-tar-free. Discuss how you can reduce the number of times you have to get a complete color, such as choosing highlights or lowlights in between appointments, or going with something that’s closer to your natural shade or a lighter shade (as dark hair dyes are the most toxic) and perhaps consider embracing your gray hair.

As for some specific salons that cater to chemical-conscious customers, try Aveda salons (their dyes are more natural but do still contain ammonia). Planet Thrive has some other great less toxic hair salon suggestions for different states around the nation.

Do you have some tips for cutting back on hair chemicals? Please share.

Sources

Cheryl Blackmore-Prince, et al., “Chemical Hair Treatments and Adverse Pregnancy Outcome Among Black Women in Central North Carolina,” American Journal of Epidemiology Vol 149(8): 712-716 (1999). http://aje.oxfordjournals.org/content/149/8/712.full.pdf

Photo courtesy Utopia Salon via Flickr.com.

Chemical Treatments Contain Harsh Ingredients
Unfortunately, these process can be particularly unhealthy while you’re body is battling cancer. The chemicals in common hair treatments like hair dyes or perm solutions can not only irritate fragile skin and hair, but give off fumes that can cause nausea, eye irritation, and other problems. (Read more here.) Since the scalp is covered with skin, which can absorb what’s placed on it—particularly if the product is left there for a period time (like hair dyes)—some of those chemicals could end up in the bloodstream.

Some studies have indicated that prolonged use of extreme hair dyes (black hair dye for over 20 years, for example) may lead to increased rates of cancer in female participants. Other studies have found no such connection. Either way, hair dyes contain potentially harmful chemicals like ammonia; quaternium-15, which can release formaldehyde; and phenylenediamine (PPD), which may be carcinogenic.

It’s Best to Avoid It During Treatment
The University of Iowa Hospitals & Clinics explains that cancer fighters with hair loss or breakage from chemotherapy or radiation treatments should “avoid coloring, bleaching or applying perm solutions to their hair at this point.” Not only will dying or processing hair expose patients to additional chemicals, but these processes can also weaken the hair shaft or make it fall out at a faster rate.

Even after treatments are over, your hair needs sufficient time to grow back at a healthy rate before undergoing aesthetic treatments. The majority of stylists and doctors suggest waiting until hair is at least 3″ long—or 6 months after treatment ends—before attempting to perm or color, although many patients experience scalp sensitivity and pain for up to a year after treatment.

Carolyn Vachani, a nurse educator, adds, “As the hair grows back after therapy, it is often more fine—almost like a baby’s hair—and thus probably will not handle the stress too well.” She advises waiting until the hair has returned to its previous fullness and health (not necessarily length) before applying processing agents, and researching the most natural options available.

Seeking Safer Products
Though there’s no such thing as a completely natural hair dye, you can find organic and natural brands that may have fewer potentially harmful chemicals. Brands like Herbatint or Aubrey Organics are some good examples.

In the end, check with your personal physician before applying anything to your scalp or hair during or after cancer treatment, especially if you may be continuing medication or additional procedures. For extra style during treatments, rely on wigs, scarves, and hats. I did, and I found after a time that I loved how they accented my look!

Did you dye your hair during cancer treatments? What did you do to preserve hair health, or what kind of natural brands have you tried? Please share!

Photo courtesy of Snap Village.