Many natural makeup brushes are made with squirrel hair.

If you regularly use brushes to apply your makeup, you know the advantages—they make it easier to control application, blend, and create a natural look, without the contamination risks of using your fingers. But when it comes to what kind of brushes to use, should you choose synthetic or animal hair?

For years the professionals have preferred animal-hair brushes, citing their softness, ability to “carry” color, and usefulness for specific natural-looking applications. But we wondered—are animals harmed in the making of animal-hair brushes?

Goats, badgers, squirrels, minks, and ponies all donate (unwillingly) their hair to makeup brushes. Each type of hair comes with its own unique strengths and advantages. The stiffness of badger hair works to define, shape, and fill in brows. Goat hair is very soft and provides a medium-to-full application that is even and natural-looking. Kolinsky hair (from the tail of a species of mink) holds a fine point and is good when you need to be precise. Pony hair is typically used in blush or eye brushes, and is considered strong enough for good contouring. Squirrel—often considered the softest hair—is good for detailing and shading the crease of the eye.

Are the animals harmed when they give up this hair? According to caringconsumer.com, mink and sable brushes often use hair obtained from the fur industry, which is known for trapping and killing animals for their pelts, often by gassing or electrocuting to avoid damaging the hair. Horse hair commonly comes from horses slaughtered for meat, goats are shorn like sheep (and may suffer cuts and other injuries), and squirrels are hunted or trapped. Some manufacturers obtain their hair supplies from other countries, where animal welfare regulations are either lax or nonexistent.

“Companies that claim that they are cruelty free,” says Peggy Hannaman-Jones, founder of the Branded J Collection, “claiming they are shaving the animals and using shed hair from animals are deceiving themselves and others. It is simply not true! All hair is bought through fur farmers all over the world.”

Trying to nail down exactly where different cosmetic companies get their animal hair, however—and how those animals are treated—is difficult, if not impossible. Most companies don’t have this information available to the public. So what is a conscientious consumer to do?

First, if you’re really sold on animal-hair brushes, ask your favorite company what “cruelty-free” means to them. Where do they get their animal hair? Is it possible for you to see the conditions in which the animals are kept? Can you to get any literature on the matter at all?

If you want to avoid anything made with animals, or simply want to skip the hassle of trying to figure out which animals (if any) are treated humanely, stick with synthetic brushes. The good news is that modern-day technology has made it possible to create high-quality synthetic brushes that hold color, resist shedding, apply evenly, and are easy to clean. There are several brands out there—to get started, try Sevi Vegan brushes, Branded J, Ecco Bella Botanicals, Paris Presents’ Eco-Tools, Garden Botanika, and Origins Natural Resources.

Have you tossed your animal-hair brushes for synthetic alternatives? Give us your recommendations.

Photo courtesy ::novocainated:: via Flickr.com.

But what about your makeup? Again, you want to use gentle, sensitive-skin formulas that are free of toxic chemicals, but as you’re perusing your drawer of products, one more thing you may want to consider is your makeup brushes. Where did you get them? What kind are they? When was the last time you washed them?

The most important thing about your brushes is that they’re soft. And believe it or not, that could mean either natural or synthetic bristles.  Let’s look at the difference.

Natural bristles are made with animal hair that comes from goats, ponies, badgers, or squirrels. (If you’re allergic to animal hair, choose synthetic brushes.) But just because it’s animal hair doesn’t mean it’s quality—it all depends on how it’s treated and connected to the handle. Natural bristles are usually hand-shaped and glued, and range from feeling really soft to rough and scratchy. (Some goats have softer hair than others, and it also depends on how the hair is processed.) They also may shed, but they usually hold powder better than synthetic bristles and distribute it more evenly, which is why they’re often preferred by professionals.

“Squirrel hair has some of the softest bristles,” says makeup writer Teresa Hall. “Good sable makeup brushes, taken care of properly, will last the longest.”

Synthetic brushes are made using man-made materials, and can also range from rough-feeling to silky soft. You can tell their synthetic by their shinier appearance. The biggest advantage is they typically don’t shed, and glide over your face easily, which can be better for dry, flaky skin. High-quality synthetic brushes can be just as nice as natural ones, so if you’re concerned about animal rights and want to avoid natural-hair, you can still find quality brushes. However, watch out for low-quality synthetic brushes, as they can stiffen with use.

“I have very sensitive skin,” says Moo. “The only natural hair brushes that don’t bother my skin are high-quality squirrel and Italian Badger hair brushes. Lumiere’s synthetics are even softer.”

To test for shedding, run your fingers through the hair, flip the bristles back and forth, then brush the brush on your hand like you would when applying makeup. After a few times if the hair is coming off, move along and test another one. If the bristles feel stiff or prickly, don’t buy it, as it will only get worse.

If both natural and synthetic brushes can be quality tools, how do you choose? Look for a trustworthy brand. Jane Iredale has a reputation for making products that are good for sensitive skin, so we’d recommend you try her brushes, which are all hand-tied. Users rave about the softness of Lumeire brushes, and Pristine Planet has some great animal-free options. Taklon makeup brushes (a synthetic material) are reputed to be best for applying cream or liquid makeup, as they hold onto the makeup and distribute it evenly. Some Taklon brushes have anti-bacterial benefits, which can be helpful while you’re going through treatment. (Natural bristles can trap powders and chemicals in makeup.)

Finally, don’t forget to clean your brushes often (at least once a week), particularly while you’re going through treatment. Use warm water and a little toxin-free shampoo, swirl in a cup, use your fingers to clean the hairs gently in the direction of the hair, then run under clean water until the water runs clear. Air dry on a paper towel with the brush hanging over the sink overnight. Do not dry the brushes upright (with the hair pointing upward) as moisture and particles can collect into the base of the brush and cause the hair to eventually fan out or shed, or even loosen the handle.

Do you have a favorite makeup brush for sensitive skin? Let us know!

Photo courtesy of annia316 via Flickr.com.

Okay, so we’re being a bit dramatic, but the point is, you have to be a little more careful while your immune system is waging the fight of its life. Here are a few tips for choosing the safest makeup tools to use on your fragile skin.

Brushes: Your fingers may have worked in the past, but fingernails trap bacteria, so if you haven’t already, get yourself a set of brushes—at the very least, a blush brush, eye shadow brush, eyebrow powder brush, face powder brush, and a lip brush. Go for the softest you can find. Natural brushes are usually made with real hair from squirrels, goats, horses, minks, badgers, or a combination of these. (If you’re allergic to any of these, you may want to opt for synthetic fibers.) Natural bristles usually—but not always—give a softer, more natural finish to your makeup, and make even distribution easier.

Synthetic brushes are usually made with Taklon or nylon, with no hair from animals, but depending on the quality, they can become cakey and goopy with makeup, which raises your risk of infection. Low-quality bristles also tend to harden more quickly. If you choose synthetic, feel the bristles, make sure they’re soft, and go with a high-quality brand.

You may want to buy individual brushes as opposed to those in a set, so that you can test each for quality, and get only what you need. To test, run the brush over the back of your hand. If the bristles get out of shape or fall out, pass it by. As for the handles, look for wood that feels good in your fingers, and lacks the chemicals of plastic. Try those from Totally Organic or Pristine Planet.

Cotton Balls: Choose the jumbo-sized, whispy soft real cotton balls. They absorb better than synthetic and are softer on your skin.

Tweezers: Besides the eyelash curler, this is one of the most dangerous makeup tools while you’re going through chemo or radiation. To lower your risk of cuts or other wounds, set aside your pointed-nose tweezers and choose something that won’t cut your skin. Try Ergo-Tweez Tapered Flat Tips, which have a soft foam cushion grip, Manicure4u rounded tweezers, or Tweezerman round-tip tweezers.

Sponges: Again, we’d recommend the natural materials. Try Max Factor Natural Cosmetic Sponge, or Natural Bath and Body Caribbean Silk Sponges. Be sure to dispose of them every time to reduce risk of bacteria buildup.

Eyelash Curler: If you’re losing your hair due to treatment, you could lose your eyelashes too. An eyelash curler during this time can be enemy #1 to your lashes! Use a rounded-rubber curler gently and only when you need to (try Shu Uemura’s curler), or try warming a spoon in hot water, dry it, and push the curved part of the spoon against the lashes to curl.

Wash Your Brushes: While going through treatment, wash at least once a week. In addition to keeping you safe from infection, it will extend the life of your brushes. You can mix vinegar with water (two parts water to one part vinegar), dip your brushes in, scrub a bit, then rinse off with running water and allow to air dry hanging over the edge of the sink. You can also use lukewarm water and a small amount of natural shampoo or gentle bath soap. Let the brush soak in the soapy water, rub gently, then rinse until the water runs clear and air dry.

Do you have a favorite quality makeup tool? Let us know.

Photo courtesy of widowmkr via Flickr.com.